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Blog Posts

Why is Radon Higher in Winter

March 2019

I get asked this a lot, as all of a sudden it seems radon readings are higher than we are used to. I admit I could only refer everyone to the EPA website for a "non-answer".

But then I inspected a house in Brewster that was admittedly a fairly unique setup but none the less completely explained - visually - the answer.

Now this gets into 'my brain hurts' territory, but here goes

Its due to a principle caused the 'Stack Effect'. Everyone knows that hot air rises and that cool air sinks, thats why we insulate our attics to stop such a thing.

Why You Should Never Use Bleach To Clean Mold

February 2019

For many households, chlorine bleach is generally seen as your “go-to” cleaner for tough jobs. Mold removal does requires a heavy duty cleaner, but recently, many of the hazards of bleach are gaining more media attention causing people to take a closer look at the way they clean.

OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration) was one of the first federal agencies to STOP recommending the use of liquid bleach for mold remediation. The EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) has since edited their “A brief guide to mold and moisture and your home” to exclude their once suggested use of bleach as a means to kill mold.

So what actually is mold? Let’s go over the basics to get a better understanding of how it works and how it should be properly treated.

Reasons to Have Your Home Tested for Radon

January 2019

If you’re considering whether you need to have your home tested for radon, read on to find out why radon testing is a must for you and your family’s health.

Having Your Home Tested for Radon Is the Only Way to Detect It: Radon is an invisible, odorless, tasteless gas. It forms naturally in rocks and soil from the breakdown of radioactive metals like uranium. Since the radioactive gas escapes from the ground, any home is at risk for radon exposure. The gas enters homes through cracks and other openings. Are you and your family being exposed to this toxic gas? Having your home tested for radon is the only way to find out.

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Frequently asked questions

Hopefully answers to most questions about Home Inspections will be found here

What is a home inspection?

A home inspection is a professional consulting service that determines the present condition of the home’s major systems, based on a visual inspection of accessible features. It focuses on the performance of the home, rather than cosmetic, code or design issues. Inspections are often performed during a real estate transaction but may be done anytime.

A home inspection is:

An in-field evaluation and professional opinion of the performance of the readily accessible installed systems in a home at one point in time
Primarily a visual examination
Intended to identify components that are significantly deficient, unsafe or near the end of their life
Documented in an online multimedia report

A home inspection is not:

An insurance policy, guarantee or warranty on the home
An invasive or destructive exercise
Intended to identify concealed defects
A code or design review
Intended to predict future performance or life expectancy
An environmental review or energy audit

Components included:

Roof
Structure
Exterior
Electrical system
Heating and Air Conditioning system
Plumbing system
Insulation and Air/Vapour Barriers
Interior
Mechanical and Natural Ventilation systems

What’s excluded:

Cosmetics
Code, bylaw and building regulation issues
Detached Outbuildings
Swimming pools and spas
Specialty systems including telephone, cable TV, alarm systems

What does a home inspection include?

The standard home inspector’s report will cover the condition of the home’s heating system; central air conditioning system (temperature permitting); interior plumbing and electrical systems; the roof, attic and visible insulation; walls, ceilings, floors, windows and doors; the foundation, basement and structural components.

The Commonwealth of Massachusetts publishes a Standards of Practice and Code of Ethics that outlines what you should expect to be covered in your home inspection report.

Why do I need a home inspection?

Buying a home could be the largest single investment you will ever make. To minimize unpleasant surprises and unexpected difficulties, you’ll want to learn as much as you can about the newly constructed or existing house before you buy it. A home inspection may identify the need for major repairs or builder oversights, as well as the need for maintenance to keep it in good shape. After the inspection, you will know more about the house, which will allow you to make decisions with confidence.

If you already are a homeowner, a home inspection can identify problems in the making and suggest preventive measures that might help you avoid costly future repairs.

If you are planning to sell your home, a home inspection can give you the opportunity to make repairs that will put the house in better selling condition.

Can a house fail a home inspection?

No.

A professional home inspection is an examination of the current condition of a house. It is not an appraisal, which determines market value. It is not a municipal inspection, which verifies local code compliance. A home inspector, therefore, will not pass or fail a house, but rather describe its physical condition and indicate what components and systems may need major repair or replacement.

When do I call a home inspector?

Typically, a home inspector is contacted immediately after the contract or purchase agreement has been signed. Before you sign, be sure there is an inspection clause in the sales contract, making your final purchase obligation contingent on the findings of a professional home inspection. This clause should specify the terms and conditions to which both the buyer and seller are obligated.

What if the report reveals problems?

No house is perfect. If the inspector identifies problems, it doesn’t mean you should or shouldn’t buy the house, only that you will know in advance what to expect. If your budget is tight, or if you don’t want to become involved in future repair work, this information will be important to you. If major problems are found, a seller may agree to make repairs.

If the house proves to be in good condition, did I really need an inspection?

Definitely. Now you can complete your home purchase with confidence. You’ll have learned many things about your new home from the inspector’s written report, and will have that information for future reference.

Why can't I do it myself?

Even the most experienced homeowner lacks the knowledge and expertise of a professional home inspector. An inspector is familiar with the elements of home construction, proper installation, maintenance and home safety. He or she knows how the home’s systems and components are intended to function together, as well as why they fail.

Above all, most buyers find it difficult to remain completely objective and unemotional about the house they really want, and this may have an effect on their judgment. For accurate information, it is best to obtain an impartial, third-party opinion by a professional in the field of home inspection.

What will it cost?

The inspection fee for a typical one-family house varies geographically, as does the cost of housing. Similarly, within a given area, the inspection fee may vary depending on a number of factors such as the size of the house, its age and possible optional services such as septic, well or radon testing.

Do not let cost be a factor in deciding whether or not to have a home inspection or in the selection of your home inspector. The sense of security and knowledge gained from an inspection is well worth the cost, and the lowest-priced inspection is not necessarily a bargain.

Use the inspector’s qualifications, including experience, training, compliance with your state’s regulations, if any, and professional affiliations as a guide.

For most homes, the basic inspection fee will be from $425 to $500. Additional costing according to size and age, additional buildings and additional services will increase this price.

Try my price calculator

Is a home inspection a code inspection?

No.

Your inspection is an introduction to the house and is focused on informing and educating the client about the property. A code inspection is conducted from the perspective of the local municipality and focuses on compliance with local and state codes. Our inspector usually is aware of local codes but the scope of a home inspection is targeted more at providing an informative, detailed and objective evaluation of the house.

Are inspectors licensed and/or certified?, and do you carry errors and omissions insurance?

All Home Inspectors are licensed professionals certified by the Commonwealth of Massachusetts. They are governed by a Standards of Practice and a Code of Ethics. They all must carry General Liability as well as Errors and Omissions insurance. All must complete a mandated number of continuing education classes and must re-certify every 2 years.

Do you need to attend the inspection?

No, but I recommend that you join for at least the last portion if possible.

If you can’t join the inspection on site, the digital inspection report provides summary, specific findings, identification of potential issues, recommendations, and high resolution photographs. I am always available via e-mail or phone after the inspection to answer any questions.

You’re welcome to attend the entire inspection. Our inspector will show you how various systems operate and how to properly maintain them. You’ll also have a better understanding of the contents of the report if you are able to see it from our inspector’s perspective.

How long does the home inspection take?

About two to three hours for a single family home.

Townhomes and condos take less time.
On-site time depends on the size and age of the house; larger, older and more complex houses take more time.

What's included in your home inspection report?

Our inspection report is our product and we think it’s the best inspection report in the industry – factual, graphical, colorful, and educational.

Our Home Inspection report gives you a comprehensive understanding of the visible condition of the property across a dozen major categories: Exterior, Roof, Structure, Water Control Systems, Insulation and Ventilation, Interior, Electrical, HVAC, Plumbing, Fuel Services, Appliances and Environmental Systems. If we identify issues, we provide you with specific recommendations and next steps.

Our reports meet the state inspection standards, and include video and high resolution photos, many annotated to more clearly highlight the information.

How is our home inspection report delivered?

Via e-mail

Your report will be available within 24 hours as the stated guarantee, but unless you are otherwise informed, it will be viewable later that day - usually at night

What is the difference between a Home Inspection and a Home Apprasial?

The difference is that a home inspector is there to inspect the home for the condition of the home and a home apprasial is there to estimate the home value. While a VA or FHA home apprasial will include issues that likely need further review by a license contractor, their's is not a comprehensive review of all the sub-systems of the house as seen through the experienced eyes of a home inspector. Another difference is that the home inspector is going to crawl through your attic and crawlspace (if you have one) to determine the condition of the home.

Everything is covered in snow. Can you still inspect the house?

Yes, we can still inspect the house, but there will obviously be a few limitations, the largest being the roof covering. When roof coverings are buried in snow, they can’t be inspected. It’s a lot more work for us to inspect houses when there’s a lot of snow on the ground, but it’s OK. We don’t charge any more for the inspection when we have to trudge through the snow.

How will you get into the home?

Typically we’ll set up the inspection with the listing agent or seller. Due to common sense principles, we cannot inspect a home without the presence of a licensed realtor invoved in the transaction (and therefore carrying professional liability) unless the seller issues an indemnity against loss or damage.

Can I see the inspection agreement before you do the home inspection?

Yes, we email the inspection agreement to our clients at the time we book the inspection, and we ask our clients to review and accept out the inspection agreement online ahead of time.

How do I pay for the Home Inspection?

Payment is due at the completion of the physical inspection and before delivery of the final report. You can pay securely on-line at the report link using the Authorize.net portal, or by cash or check

Why don’t you provide your inspection reports on-site?

I write the report when I get home. Your report contains much more than just what might be needing attention. It's also a how to manual for your new home. I supply lots of information specific to your home, as if I was explaining things for a friend or family member. I'll spend almost as much time writing the report as inspecting. After you read one of my inspection reports, I think you’ll understand why I don’t produce the reports on site.

Do utilities need to be on?

In short YES! While we can still conduct the inspection in the event they are not, it severely limits our scope and potentially reduces our ability to find defects.

What are the problems with negative grading and how do I fix it?

Grading or slope of the land is important around the home because it will determine which direction surface water will flow. Negative grading is when the surface slopes towards the foundation wall. This can allow surface water to run directly against the wall and potentially seep into the basement or crawlspace. Regrading the area around the foundation walls repairs the majority of the basement water penetration problems. Many problems occur when people install flower gardens or put mulch up against a foundation wall. In order to properly fix a negative grading condition, the top, porous soil must be removed in the affected area and well-compacted, non-porous clay or similar soil must be added and re-graded. The newly added soil around the perimeter of the home should slope away (at a minimum rate of one inch per foot for the first 6 feet) from the house to prevent rainwater from accumulating next to the foundation. Learn more about grading and controlling surface water.

What are the estimated life spans of all the systems in my house?

There is no accurate method to determine exactly how long a particular system or component is going to last. This is due to a number of reasons: the geographic area; the physical location of the units; and the climate and weather. This is similar to asking how long a car lasts. There are too many variables to determine the life span of items that need maintenance and have thousands of integral components. For example, with heating systems, many factors can directly affect the life span of the appliance. If the furnace is located in an unconditioned crawlspace or in the attic, the elevated humidity levels can rapidly cause heat exchangers to prematurely rust. In addition, when furnaces are used in the colder months, the differences between the low air temperature and the high temperature of the heat exchanger can cause expansion/contraction cracking that can lead to leaks in the heat exchanger. Boilers traditionally had long lifespans - 25 years was commonly attained - but newer energy efficient models have a short payback period and are now more common. Roofs, on the other hand, can be affected by factors like the amount of direct sunlight, adequacy of attic ventilation, number of layers of roofing material, as well as the quality of the roofing material itself. Climate and weather can affect the life of the roof also. In the Northeastern states roofing material can last 20 to 25 years or longer.

SYSTEM	COMPONENT	ESTIMATED DESIGN LIFE

Roofing	Asphalt Composition Shingle	20 Years
	Asphalt Architectural Shingle	25+ years
	Built-Up Roofing	10 – 15 Years
	EPDM Rubber Roofing	15 – 30 Years
	Wood Shakes / Shingles	20 – 25 Years
	Slate Roofing	50 Plus Years
	Metal Roofing (flat, standing-seam, corrugated)	Indefinite
	Gutters and Downspouts	20 Years
Heating	Traditional Boiler (Baseboard / Steam)	25 – 40 Years
	Forced Air Furnace – Gas	20 Years
	Forced Air Furnace – Oil	25 Years

Cooling	Mini Split/Heat Pump	15 Years
	Central Split System	15 Years
	A/C Compressor	10 – 15 Years

Plumbing	Water Heater – Electric	10 – 12 Years
	Water Heater – Gas	10 – 12 Years
	Water Heater – Oil	10 – 15 Years
	Sump Pump	5 – 8 Years
	Well Pump	10 – 15 Years

Kitchen / Appliances	Dishwasher	5 – 10 Years
	Garbage Disposal	5 – 10 Years
	Cook Top – (Electric / Gas)	15 – 20 Years
	Range / Oven	15 – 20 Years
	Refrigerator	5 – 25 Years
	Trash Compactor	5 – 10 Years
	Ventilator / Draft Hood	8 – 12 Years
	Washing Machine / Clothes Dryer	8 – 12 Years
Miscellaneous	Chemical Termite Treatment (subterranean)	5 Years
	Fumigation for Drywood Termites	2 Years
	Radon Mitigation System	Life of the fan

What is a double-tapped circuit?

Double-tapping, also known as “double-lugging,” is a condition where there is more than one wire conductor terminated in a service panel fuse or circuit breaker. Double-tapping is permissible only if the terminals are identified for that use. Most breakers and fuse connections are designed to hold and handle just a single incoming circuit, although there are some manufacturers, such as Square-D™, that market breakers designed to allow two wires to be securely attached. Any time repairs are performed on or within the electrical system and its components, a licensed electrician should be contacted to make these repairs.

What should I pay for a home inspection?

Just like anything else, “you get what you pay for.” If you price shop to find the cheapest home inspectors, you will get burned. We see it all the time. Home inspectors that charge low prices will push for high volume which means they are trying to inspect 3 homes a day. It is absolutely impossible to be thorough when inspecting that many!

What is a failed insulated glass seal and why is it considered a defect?

An insulated glass seal is a window made up of two or more layers of glass held together in a track or frame. A gasketed channel separates the two pieces of glass, and the space between the panes is filled with a moisture-free, inert gas such as nitrogen. When a gasket fails, the inert gas between the panes escapes to the exterior of the window and regular, moisture-laden air is drawn into the space. This does not greatly affect the insulation value of the window but will affect the visibility through the glass. When this happens, the window will look dirty or foggy and you will not be able to clean it off. This is because the fogged or filmed surface will be between the two panes of glass and not on the outer surfaces. If there is a lot of moisture in the air you will also see condensation on the interior of the window. There is no warning device on a window or door that will indicate when the seal will fail. Most window manufacturers have some kind of warranty that will cover possible seal failures, but the length of time the warranty covers varies. The longer the failed seal is present, coupled with major temperature differences between inside and outside environments, the more obvious the failure will become.

Can I store items in my attic?

Before you store anything in your attic, you need to ensure that the attic framing is designed and capable of supporting the loads you intend to place there. There are basically two methods of construction in the attics of single family dwellings–conventional or stick-framing, and engineered or truss-framing. Conventionally framed roofs consist of rafters or boards that make up the slope of the roof; ceiling joists that make up both the floor of the attic space and the ceiling framing for the floor below; and the ridge board, which provides both an anchoring point and additional support to the tops of the rafters. Conventional roof framing is usually made up of large stock dimensional lumber such as 2×8, 2×10, or 2×12 boards. Trusses are engineered products that are designed and built to combine the rafter, ceiling joist and ridge all into one component, and are usually built of 2×4 lumber secured together using perforated metal plates at all joints. Unless they are specifically designed for carrying the additional load, trusses will not adequately support your stored items. You will experience cracking and damage to the finished ceiling in the floor below, as well as possible structural damage to the trusses themselves. Conventionally framed roofs may be more forgiving, however, a licensed contractor or structural engineer should be consulted before making any modifications to your attic framing. Practically speaking, attics, unless reinforced, well vented, or designed as conditioned space, are generally not an ideal place to store items. Temperatures may vary too much, pests may be involved, and the risk of falling through the ceiling is greatest in the attic. Not to mention the accelerated deterioration heat will have on your paper momentos and Kodak pictures.

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Independent Home Inspector - using Multimedia Reporting Software

Licensed Home Inspector

Associate Home Inspector

General Contractor

Building Moving Industry

Home Inspection Services

Home Inspections for all types of Dwellings

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Indoor Air Quality

Allergen Testing

Radon Testing

Water Testing for Radon and Lead

OVERVIEW OF SERVICES

Radon Testing

Indoor Air Quality Testing

Carpet Allergen Testing

Mold Inspection

Water Test for Lead - Town Water

Water Test - Well Water

Wood Pest Inspection

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